Hvar The Other Side of the Island
Hvar, an island for jet setters, the queen of the Croatian Dalmatian islands, one of the 10 most beautiful islands In the world, the most happening island, a destination for celebs, moneyed revelers and visitors familiar with five-star luxury.
But...
there is another side of the Hvar island not so well known, not as advertised, called undeveloped, though we like to call it a natural beauty of the island. It includes towns and coves on both sides from town Sucuraj to Jelsa. Zarace by Gdinj is one such cove and, I have to say, it's breathtaking beauty is one of a kind. This part of the island has a doctor visit each town once a week, post office works only one to two hours a day (or as my mom loves to say from midday to noon), local bus connecting these towns goes three times a week (once in the early morning and once in the afternoon on it's way “back”). Fruits and veggies are brought to the coves only during the summer season (from July 1st till 31st of August, by the farmers from Metkovic), bread needs to be ordered a day ahead or, if you forget, you would have to bake it at home, (that is if you have enough flour at home), water is collected in the water tanks and refilled (as needed) by the firemen from Jelsa and water supply. If there is a fire on the island, you will need to wait for the fire to be put out before you can get the water for washing and cleaning.
But...
we are healthier for the lack of stress and simplicity of life (the doctor is not that necessary, after all), we get to hang out with the whole town when we go to the post office (great for socializing with all three of the town's people), we get fresh and homegrown fruits and veggies and not the plastic stuff in the shopping malls (by our delivery couple Ivica and Perica), our memory is exercised by always having to remember ordering bread on time, and thankfully we have the sea to freshen up while we pray for safety of our firemen and people affected by the fire. We've learned to adjust, adapt, and enjoy it.
But...
the beauty is untouched and unspoiled, and all of the above gives it a special charm that is unmatched. No one can dispute that real rest and vacation comes when the loudest noise you can hear is of the guests laughing. The street lights are non-existent (to my dad's great frustration), but can you see the stars in the night sky, wow! Some guests have exclaimed that they have never seen so many!
The crickets add charm to the place. Some years they are so incredibly loud that we need to practically yell to be heard over their grating their wings, but, in the same time, there is something comforting in that sound, something cheerful and relaxing.
If you try to clean the fish for a BBQ on the beach you stand a chance of one of the rascally seagulls fighting you for a share, most often than not, they use their greatly mastered skills of thievery, so be watchful. I've witnessed a mid-flight fighting match of seagulls, squealing their all too familiar, “Mine, mine, mine, mine,” over a fish.
A friend of mine that vacations in Hvar asked for a suggestion for a new beach to visit and try out this summer. A bit hesitantly she ventured out on this side and enjoyed herself immensely.
Another friend decided to check it out and take my word for it after I told her the pictures and videos cannot do this place subject justice, she wasn't disappointed. “This place has something special, something that makes you just kick back and relax!”